Tag: Perugia

Italy: Glimpses of Perugia

JWF 2 Comments

PARK SCENES

Situated high up on the ramparts, Perugia has a small park with a view out over the buildings below and over the valley to the mountains.

TOWN HALL

In the historic center is an attractive town hall and museum with on one side sculptures of a griffin and a lion, both symbols of Perugia. Inside the hall is another pair of these animals, at least one dating to the 13th century.

Perugia town hall
Early griffin sculpture

PIAZZA AT DUOMO

In front of the duomo is a very famous fountain. This fountain was at one time key to the town’s water supply. It also has scenes around its base for each month. One shows the harvesting of figs, an important crop and food source.

Piazza in front of duomo
Fountain with elaborate sculpting

UNDERGROUND PERUGIA

Perugia also has an elaborate underground system of tunnels and passageways. From the park level where we were, they were reached by escalator. People arriving in Perugia at the parking lot, by tour bus or car, take a different escalator down to reach this underground network.

Parts of temples discovered underground were built in the 6th century BCE; in the 16th century, homes and other structures were built on top of them when Roman noble families were battling with the pope. Walking through them today, the space is high in volume with lots of arches.

PARK WITH FOUNTAIN

Lastly, here are two images from another park set away from the ramparts area which has a small fountain and an impressive statue of Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II.

Vittorio Emanuele II

Our guide again today was the extremely well-informed and delightful Werner!

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.). Header photo is a view from Perugia’s upper level.

Italy: Orvieto

JWF 1 Comment

DUOMO DI ORVIETO

Yesterday we traveled from Rome to Perugia via Orvieto.  It was a pretty ride and a combination of winding country roads and some time on the highway.  We spent several hours in Orvieto, focusing mainly on the striking 14th century Duomo di Orvieto.  

This cathedral, unlike others of gray stone, has beautiful mosaics on the front façade. The side exterior walls and the inside have a striped appearance from alternating layers of white travertine and blackish basalt. 

Travertine & basalt on side walls
Mosaics on facade of Duomo di Orvieto

In style, this cathedral is Italian Gothic.  Dedicated to St. Mary, its history is related to transubstantiation, the transfer of the element of communion into the actual blood of Christ.   A traveling priest found that his Host was bleeding so much it stained the altar cloth.  This cloth is now stored in one of the cathedral’s chapels. 

 It is one of the most distinctive and loveliest large churches I’ve seen anywhere. It sits high on a volcanic or lava neck on a small piazza.

Column in duomo interior

We also stopped by the original church here. Orvieto was a poor town surrounded by farms and the church was small. It has been rebuilt to some extent, but the contrast between this building and the duomo funded by the Vatican is great.

Chiesa di Sant’Andrea with separate bell tower

PERUGIA

Cafe scene Perugia

From Orvieto, we went on to Perugia, capital of Umbria, where we will stay for several nights.  Here we enjoyed drinks at one café and then dinner at another, both in the center of the main thoroughfare. Compared to Rome, it was wonderfully calm and less touristy. At one end of the street were a crowd of people and some classic race cars; occasionally a low slung car rumbled by on one side.  

Locals and others strolled past and it was fun to people watch.  We even engaged with a young man masquerading as a cow.  We didn’t why, but he and his cohorts provided some entertainment. Later we learned it may have been part of a graduation exercise.

Young people on the street

FOOD

In Italy, almost all restaurants and cafes serve only Italian food.  Not other cuisines.  We’ve had several pizzas, ranging from good to so-so, and pasta dishes.  Most noteworthy for pasta for the Chief Penguin and me has been the tagliolini with truffles.  In one case, a mix of black and white truffles, and yesterday at lunch, pasta generously dressed with black truffles.  White ones are not fully in season yet.  

Our other treats were roast lamb or lamb cooked over a wood fire and gnocchi with Gorgonzola sauce for the C.P.  I indulged in vitello tonnato, paper thin slices of veal covered with a tuna sauce (consistency of thin mayonnaise) topped with capers, and served cold.  I first had this dish in Rome more than 40 years ago and for me, it’s a must at least once every trip.  

Note: Photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.) Header photo is of the piazza around the Duomo Di Orvieto.