PORTLAND—FOOD AND MORE
Like Julius Caesar’s army, the Chief Penguin and I travel on our stomachs. Despite what it may seem, we did do more in Portland than eat. But, knowing the restaurants mid-coast are not as varied or inventive, we took advantage of Portland’s wonderful foodie scene.
DINING
Hugo’s
The food at Hugo’s is sophisticated and creative. We’ve now eaten here several years in a row on our first night in Portland and this visit was no exception. We began with tuna crudo and then proceeded to a charcuterie board; cucumber with falafel nibs; roasted cauliflower bathed in a smear of hot sauce; and spaghetti chittara; ending with two desserts—chocolate several ways and mini cubes of rhubarb accompanied by mousse and locust leaf sorbet, etc. All dishes were on the small side and we shared everything. We hadn’t ordered the cucumber, but when they brought it instead of the cauliflower we did order, they comped us the cucumber.
Duckfat
We were inspired to try some place different for lunch, figuring if there were a line out the door we’d go elsewhere. But Lady Luck was with us as we were seated at the bar immediately upon arriving, just ahead of the noon rush! Duckfat is most casual with seating on high stools at the bar and low stools at counters around the perimeter.
It is known for its Belgian fries so of course we had to sample them. Probably the best fries I’ve ever tasted and even better with the Thai chili dipping sauce! From there we moved on to the duck and charred cabbage salad; a board of charcuterie and salmon, Tasso ham, pimento cheese, homemade pickles, loma, and buttered brown bread; and also a wedge salad (actually two large wedges) decorated with slivers of tomato and radish slices in a rich blue cheese dressing. The last was to offset those fries. Paired with a glass of summery rose, it all made for the perfect lunch!
Chaval
Chaval is the sister restaurant to Piccolo which we’ve also enjoyed. This was our second meal at Chaval and with a slight chance of rain, they had closed their garden in favor of inside seating. The menu is a mix of small plates and entrees such as steak frites. Having enjoyed our Duckfat lunch, we ordered more lightly—warm olives, broccolini with bacon and bits of orange, a young beet salad, Iberia ham croquettes, and the Alsace chicken breast entree with morels and spinach in a light cream sauce, which we shared. Everything was delicious!
While out and about, we also checked out a natural foods store, stopped in to Le Roux Kitchenware for mugs and paring knives, and bought pancetta and good canned tuna at Micucci Grocery, a new find on India Street. All sorts of Italian dry goods from jars of peppers and pickles to panettone, and many pasta shapes, plus cheeses and sliced meats.
ART
We like the Portland Museum of Art. They do an excellent job presenting their collection and engaging visitors with exhibits that focus on lesser-known aspects of arts and crafts. The currently featured exhibit is called In the Vanguard: Haystack Mountain School of Crafts 1950-1969. It brings together works by sculptors, painters, and fabric artists that were groundbreaking and signaled new directions in artistic creation for that time.
Also on display is Open-Ended, an exhibit of new museum acquisitions that I particularly enjoyed. What makes it special is the commentary about why a piece was purchased and its significance or connection to the rest of the collection.
BOOKSTORES
And for me, time spent in Portland would not be complete without time in their independent bookstores. We didn’t get to Print this year (our time here was shorter than usual), but we browsed in Sherman’s (one of their several locations, this one on Exchange Street) and in Longfellow Books at Monument Square. I made several purchases in each store, adding to my growing stack of summer reading!
Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is of the board at Duckfat.
