Tag: Rapa Nui

Chile: More Easter Island Sights

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EASTER ISLAND PART 2
On our second day we began with the local museum, MAPSE, which is funded at least in part by the Easter island Foundation. This small museum has an excellent exhibit on the history of the island and the arrival of the Rapa Nui along with a number of artifacts including one of the only moai that has female characteristics. The Rap Nui people are considered to be Polynesian in origin and culture. I was particularly struck by a panel that showed a map of the Pacific with the Polynesian triangle of Easter Island on the west, Hawaii at the point of the triangle, and New Zealand at the eastern corner.  Having been to New Zealand last year and to Hawaii in September, seeing this graphic was meaningful.

One of two moai with female characterics

After the museum, we toured several more moai sites with Chris. This time we began with Tahai, a site on the edge of Hanga Roa that we hadn’t seen on our brief walk the day we arrived. We actually were glad that we waited to visit it with Chris since he provided context for it, and we had learned a lot the day before which enhanced our appreciation.

What is especially noteworthy here is that one moai (a reproduction I believe) that stands alone has its eyes painted white. What a difference this makes in how you feel this king’s penetrating gaze! Archaeologists discovered fragments of white coral near some moai and have postulated that this coral was put into the deep eye sockets.  The moai you see today no longer have color in the eye area.  

 

We also visited a site, Vaihu, with what are purported to be seven young explorers (Chris debunked this, even though it was on the explanatory signboard), the restored village of Orongo, where we saw examples of the special houses used in the spring during the Birdman competition for the first egg, Ahu Vai Uri, a lone moai up the hill in some brambles (see header photo), and the mountain and crater from which the Rapa Nui dug out the red scoria stone for the Pukao or top knots. It was another incredible day, and we felt very lucky to have this whole Easter Island experience!

Supposed young explorers
Red scoria stone

Dining room at Hare Noi

At dinner last evening, we were about the only diners and began with drinks. The Chilean waiter, whom we’d seen on breakfast duty the day before, but not interacted with, was very chatty in an almost sweet way. We learned his name is Ignacio and, when he asked whether either of us had a cigarette lighter, he said that they were unable to light the kitchen fire to cook our dinner. We said no, but while his kitchen mates hurried off to get some sort of lighter, he then was able to make his lighting device work and the matter of dinner was resolved.

Lovely little shrimps in a spicy sauce

The Chief Penguin then joked that his name was significant and that he was an “igniter” and Prometheus, bringer of fire.   Ignacio also told us his nickname was “Nacho” and I replied I loved nachos which led to some more repartee. Humor exists around the world!

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Chile: Moai on Easter Island

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RAPA NUI, DAY 10

Our first full day on the island was a day of exploration with our own guide. Chris is an American from Virginia (ex-hippie he called himself) who came here eighteen years ago and really never left. He met his Rapa Nui fiancée on his first trip here, and together they have two teenage daughters.  

Chris was an amazing guide with an encyclopedic knowledge of the history of the Rapa Nui, their legends, and the assorted scientists and archaeologists who came here cataloged the Moai and were instrumental in bringing about their preservation. He could and did talk about everyone from Captain Cook to William Balfour to Katharine Routledge (early 20th century) and William Malloy. He also shared several of the theories of how the natives moved these tens of ton statues from the quarry to their present locations, including his own personal theory.

Many were made in the 1500’s and many were destroyed over the years and were not really protected until fairly recently. The Island initially had few tall trees and still has only pockets of trees; African coral flower bushes (bright orange), guava trees, and eucalyptus trees are found here and there. The large expanses of open land are largely owned by the government, but some of it (about 15%) is personally owned and used for raising horses and cattle. The population is centered in Hanga Roa and part of the island is not navigable except on horseback or bicycle.

Moai on the beach from the back side

We began the day at Anakena Beach since Chris indicated it would later be crowded with swimmers and picnickers. Our first moai of the day, moai being the name for these stone statues of kings and leaders who in death became deified, were five figures. Earlier lore stated that the moai always faced the ocean, but in fact, except for one exception we saw, they are near the coast, but face inland. Moai are on stone platforms called ahu and the ground in front, often lined with small stones, is sacred and not to be walked upon. Today there are simple signs with crossed out arrows and sometimes a line of wire that indicates you are not to trespass.

The moai were mostly made from tuff, a soft volcanic rock, from an inland quarry and then transported long distances, up to 7 miles, considering that they weighed many tons. There are many theories, but no definitive answer on how the torso and the head were moved. Made from the 1300s to the 1700s with many from the 1500s, they suffered the ill effects of weather and also defacement and destruction by humans. Today about 1,000 remain; some have been restored and repaired while others exist in a weathered, eroded, or unfinished state. Some moai also have topknots or red stone cylinders (scoria) above the head. The experts don’t agree; some say they represent hair, others that they are hats. The deep almost mahogany color of the pukao or topknot is striking sitting against the dark gray stone of the head and body.

Moai at Tongariki

We also visited Tongariki, a line of fifteen moai on a very long ahu. What was striking, in addition to just their mass and looming presence, was that each one was distinctive and different from the one next to it. Different heights and different facial features. They do share similarities, however, such as the head being out of proportion with the torso, having elongated ears, deep eye sockets, and hands placed in front on the lower part of the torso.

The quarry where the Rapa Nui carved the moai is inland with a crater at the top. It was a steep climb and extremely windy so we got lots of steps and plenty of exercise for the knees!

Moai at Rano Raraku

Lunch was ordered from a restaurant in Hanga Roa and then delivered to some picnic tables at our last stop. We had had a choice of beef, chicken or vegetarian in a mushroom sauce served with rice pilaf and mixed vegetables plus an apple or an orange. We opted for the chicken and it was quite tasty, although we almost got blown away while eating.

Having been out and about all day and gotten plenty of exercise, we opted to eat dinner at our hotel. The dining room is large and pleasant with glass doors on all sides and is often invaded by the chickens that lurk outside. The menu is limited, but the little shrimps I had in a spicy sauce were very good and the fresh salmon with vegetables equally delicious. As it turned out, we ended up eating here all three nights!

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Chile: Easter Island, First Impressions

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EASTER ISLAND
We flew back to Santiago from Calama last evening and then this morning flew to Easter Island. The Santiago airport has outgrown its present space and is always crowded with long snaking lines leading to the check-in counters each of which is dedicated to a specific destination. Finding which long line to be in to get to the right place is a challenge. There are staff around at various points, but signage is limited to non-existent. We were advised to get to the airport at least three hours before our 9:30 am flight so we arrived at 6:20 am. Getting there was easy as we stayed across the street at the airport Holiday Inn, an oasis of American comfort and plumbing, and could walk back to the outside elevator to departures pushing our luggage trolley.

Easter Island or Rapa Nui limits the number of visitors and, consequently, you have to not only have a valid passport, but after you get checked in, there is a three-part form to fill out which asks for your hotel or accommodation name and address. We were also told that you might have to show a copy of your hotel reservation (we didn’t). Having filled out the form, you then find the police booths and get in line to present your completed form. Only after that do you go through security! The whole process for us took about an hour and a quarter and we were glad we hadn’t waited to go over later! We had time for a bit of breakfast before boarding!

The island belongs to Chile (they claimed it in 1888) and is the most isolated inhabited island in the world. It’s almost 3,000 miles out in the Pacific from Chile. The flying time is just over 5 hours and it’s two hours earlier than on the mainland. We were on one of the new Dreamliner airplanes which seemed to dwarf the small terminal when we landed. So small that they wheel stairs (which felt a bit rickety going down) out to the plane and then you walk a short distance on the tarmac. Temperature was around 70 with a very strong breeze, but it felt tropical, was slightly humid (most welcome after the dryness of the desert), and there was a sweet smell to the air. Despite the wind, many deplaning passengers had their iPhones out to snap photos of the plane itself and the entrance to the terminal and some really gorgeous hibiscus blooms.  Even the Chief Penguin participated!

Our hotel, Hare Noi, just a short distance from the airport, is a lodge-like series of buildings built of stone and wood and connected by boardwalks. Examples of Rapa Nui art and craftsmanship decorate the walls and hallways. And throughout the property, there are large blocks of native stone including one in our room. I think it has reflectors on it so you don’t hurt yourself, but tonight will tell the tale.

The common area is pleasant with tables and chairs and sofas and on the deck outside is more seating. Overall a bit in feel like an elegant summer camp!  

We like to get out and walk when we arrive at a new destination, and today was no exception. We chatted with the helpful young woman at reception and arranged for a taxi to take us into Hanga Roa, the main town on the island where most of the residents live. And then to pick us up again an hour later. The downtown area consists of a few streets with lots and lots of restaurants serving empanadas, ceviche, burgers, and fresh local fish washed down with beer, pisco sours, and caipirinhas. In between the eateries were several supermarkets, shops selling souvenirs and handicrafts, tour agencies, a car rental place and other services.

We walked down to the shoreline, still very windy, and gazed upon the breaking waves and noted some colorful boats moored at one end.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).  Header photo is of a Moai reproduction in Hanga Roa.