Upstate NY: Finger Lakes & Capital District

  1. SNATCHES OF UPSTATE NY.

We spent this past week getting together with old friends, family and former colleagues as well as visiting old haunts and new venues. Lots of great hospitality along the way.   From Bethlehem, PA, we traveled to Skaneateles and Auburn and then on to Albany and Saratoga Springs.  It was a whirlwind of activity and dining.  Here are some of the highlights, but not all in the order we did them!

We had lunch at this popular cafe not far from the Albany Capitol Building.  Very tasty!

From there we visited the Albany Institute of History and Art, a museum the Chief Penguin had never visited in all his childhood visits to the city.  We toured the extensive exhibit of Hudson River School paintings.

Twilight by Frederic Church
Mount Aetna by Sarah Cole

 

 

 

Two views in downtown Albany with a very prominent sculpture of General Sheridan of Civil War fame.  Not sure what his connection with Albany was.

 

Harriet Tubman’s modest home in Auburn.  Several families lived here with her, primarily after the Civil War.  No indoor plumbing.

In Skaneateles, there is a lovely gazebo at the foot of the lake where you can stroll.

  

For dinner, we dined at Skaneateles’ most elegant spot, Mirbeau Inn. The setting is simply exquisite, the food not quite the equal.

 

 

 

 

One day we drove through Stillwater, where the C.P. spent the early years of his childhood, checked out one of the many canal locks in that area, and then ended up in Saratoga Springs for lunch at the lovely renovated Adelphi Hotel.   Saratoga has become quite the happening place—a lot different from the somewhat sleepy town it was in the 80’s! 

 

All photos ©JWFarrington.  Header photo is Skaneateles Lake.

 

 

 

 

 

Cruising to Mexico

CRUISING

Some folks choose a cruise for the ports of call, others for just the experience of being at sea.  The motivation for our five-day Western Caribbean cruise was a gathering of the Chief Penguin’s cousins.  Some of these cousins saw each other weekly as kids, but hadn’t spent any appreciable time together in years except for an occasional family reunion.  Counting us, there were nine in the group hailing from Colorado, Virginia, upstate New York, and Florida.

    

Our ship was Royal Caribbean’s Brilliance of the Seas.  It’s one of the smaller ones in their fleet, but, by my lights, it’s large carrying more than 2,000 passengers and hundreds of crew.  Like many ships of this sort, it has the requisite number of glitzy spaces.    Lots of bars and lounges and music almost everywhere; during the day piped music and at night, performers of all sorts—singers, bands, shows, all with loud, if not blaring music.  In fact, it’s hard to escape the music, but we did find a few spots that were quiet and peaceful.  One evening we enjoyed a small orchestra playing big band music, most of which was danceable.   If you want classical violin or country music, you could find that too, and late at night there’s usually a disco experience somewhere.  We sailed during March, spring break time, and a preponderance of passengers were college students, families with small children fleeing the still snowy north, and teachers escaping the classroom, along with a smaller coterie of senior citizens.

Royal Caribbean sells drink packages which we didn’t buy. We were sometimes the beneficiaries of the Chief Penguin’s cousins’ generous perks and didn’t plan to drink that much.  But, given that on this line, you pay for every drink except water, juices, coffee and tea, you’d think that the staff would be more present in the lounges encouraging you to imbibe.  Not so.  Occasionally, service for a pre-dinner glass of wine was slow or non-existent.

Food was plentiful and, mostly very good.  The range of selections in the Windjammer Café for breakfast and lunch (we didn’t eat dinner here) was extensive! Everything from eggs, bacon, sausage, pancakes, waffles, cereal, fruits, smoked salmon, toast and English muffins, omelets, and probably twenty-five different kinds of pastries, doughnuts and rolls!  At lunch, you could always get hamburgers, hot dogs and fries, but also hot dishes like fried chicken, a Moroccan veggie stew, chicken curry, salad fixings from an appetizing salad bar, plus pizza, beef stew, rice, and pasta.   And then cookies, puddings, cakes and soft serve ice cream for dessert.  It’s easy to over indulge and hard to go hungry!  There was even a gluten free corner on one of the many stations.

We opted for dinner in the formal dining room, Minstrel, and, Cousin Jane, our tour director, had arranged for us to have a set table every night at 6:00 pm.  Table 326 was round and worked well for the group.  We had the same two great waiters, Swapneel and Vasiljie, every night.  I do have to say that the dining room was always full and felt crowded, but the service was efficient.  The wait staff worked hard to see that you got your food in a timely fashion.  The dinner menu offered three courses with five or six choices in each course and three special entrées for which you paid extra.  Some items were regulars, but there was always something different too.

My horseradish-crusted salmon was delicious and my chicken cordon blue nicely prepared, but a bit skimpy on the filling.  The arugula and radicchio salad was good, the Caesar one adequate.  It’s traditional fare; if you desire pork vindaloo, Windjammer is your spot.

We had two full days at sea, and, if you want to be active, besides the pool area, there was a rock climbing wall, fitness center, basketball court, shops to explore, and classes to attend, plus the casino.  Or, like us, you can find a quiet nook to sit and read and watch the rippling waves.

Our first port was Key West, a town we visited twenty-five years ago with our then pre-teen son.  We disembarked after the long lines for the trolleys wound down and spent a brief time re-exploring the downtown.  Sloppy Joe’s, Hog’s Breath Saloon, and the Banyan Tree Inn are all still in business.  

And I even remembered the name of the resort (The Reach) where we stayed before!  With its funky, quirky ambiance, carefree style, and more bars and restaurants than you can name, Key West is Florida’s answer to New Orleans.

After a day at sea, we docked at the port in Cozumel, an island twelve miles off the Yucatán peninsula. There were six cruise ships in the port.   

 

Once we disembarked for the many shops on the pier, we were part of a huge throng of tourists.  Shopkeepers were outside optimistically hustling for sales which we resisted.  We made the circuit of the stores, walked toward the taxi stand with the idea of going into San Miguel several miles away, but were deterred by the long queue.  We then debated getting a mid-morning beer or a margarita but didn’t.  We headed back to the ship for lunch (and a beer) followed by several laps around the outside pool deck.  Each night there was some sort of performance ranging from a magician to the Las Vegas Tenors to the crew’s big show on the last night.  

I think the cousins enjoyed each other’s company—possibly more than they expected—-and as the cruise progressed, more time was spent together after breakfast and at lunch.  A big thank you to Jane and Ed, seasoned cruisers, for making an enjoyable experience even more so!

Our port of embarkation was Tampa and the boarding process was quite well organized.  Disembarking, if you carried your own luggage, was very efficient and customs and re-entry to the U.S. speedy.  We were off the ship, through customs, and at our car at the cruise parking garage in about 30 minutes.  Would I do this again?  Yes, as we’ve discovered that cruising out of Tampa is easy, and being aboard the ship, whatever your destination, is a relaxing change of pace—a vacation from retirement!

READING–FAMILY SECRETS

I enjoyed two novels while at sea.  Here are my thoughts on one of them.

The Heirs by Susan Rieger.  Rupert Falkes, an English orphan, became a very successful lawyer, and he and his wife Eleanor had five sons.  When he dies, a strange woman comes forward claiming that her two sons were his.  While this event is disturbing, the novel focuses more on the sons’ past lives and their relationships with their mother and with each other.  Upper class and wealthy, the Falkes are a privileged lot living a privileged life in Manhattan.  Each chapter is told from the perspective of a different family member, and the reader becomes party to some of their secrets, but not others.

Rieger is especially astute on the close, but sometimes fraught, relations between parents and offspring.  Whatever she knows or thinks she knows about Rupert’s past and his possible involvement with another woman, Eleanor never lets on to her children.  She evinces more benevolence than hatred or upset toward these interlopers.  Infidelity and competition recur throughout this family as they contemplate both their father’s legacy and what form of legacy they might leave. It’s a little hard to keep the sons straight, but Sam stands out as the gay brother who desperately wants to have a child.  An enjoyable read, particularly for anyone familiar with the New York scene.

 

Tidy Tidbits: Arts & Video

SUNNY ISLES

We made a brief trip south this past week to visit some very good friends who spend about two months on Captiva.  Captiva and its larger, more commercial neighbor, Sanibel, are lush with greenery, crowded during this season, and strung out between a bay and the Gulf of Mexico.  Pretty great venue for escaping winter’s grip and wiggling your toes in the soft sand.

We enjoyed a relaxing 24 hours which included a stroll on the beach, browsing the Tuesday farmers’ market for breakfast pastries, and dinner at The Mad Hatter.  This popular restaurant was packed with diners and the food was fabulous.  From tasty Caesar salads, we advanced to rack of lamb, black truffle dusted dayboat scallops, and gulf snapper in a stew of cherry tomatoes, artichokes, and little neck clams.  It was a memorable visit!

CULTURE NOTES

The Global Affairs lecture this week was a winner with former U.S. Representative Mickey Edwards speaking on the topic, “Does the Constitution Still Matter to Us?’  The Chief Penguin and I had heard him several times in Aspen and found him thoughtful; he delivered again.  Later in the week, we were at a Sarasota Orchestra concert.  Michael Balke, a young German guest conductor, was very good and seemed in sync with the players, but we were underwhelmed by violinist Midori’s performance.  We didn’t particularly care for the Bernstein piece she performed, and she seemed disengaged from the audience.

ON THE SMALL SCREEN

Sticking to my daily treadmill routine requires an engaging series.  Here are the latest two I’ve watched.

Morocco:  Love in Time of War (Netflix)  

This series is set in the Spanish city of Melilla bordering Morocco.  The year is 1921, and the Spaniards are at war with the native Berbers.  It focuses on the dame nurses and the doctors who work in the Melilla’s Red Cross hospital.  The nurses, overseen by a stalwart duchess and friend of the queen, are from upper class families in Madrid.  Working in a war zone requires a level of stamina and flexibility they could never have conjured up.

The series is dubbed, and the dubbing takes some getting used to, but I enjoyed this slice of Spanish history and all the romantic entanglements between nurses and doctors.  Fiancés show up, engagements and marriages are tested, and all the while, injured soldiers continue to be brought to the hospital.  The duchess does battle with the colonel in charge of the base and even the queen shows up to inspect.

Love, Lies, and Records (Acorn)  

This British series takes place in the records office in Leeds.  (Apparently, people in England need to come in person to register births and deaths, something most Americans can do online.)  I liked this series but didn’t love it.  Some of it is funny as much of life in this office is chaotic and crazy in the most unprofessional way.  Interim registrar Kate Dickinson deals with a transgender colleague, engaged couples with immigration issues, and a distraught young widower.  In her personal life, she is torn between Rob, her longtime partner and father of her children, and Rick, her colleague and lover.  I watched it all, but don’t know that I’ll return if there’s a Season 2.

Notes:  Morocco image from Netflix, Love, Lies image from next-episode.com

Florida Fling: Winter Park

WINTER PARK EXCURSION

Florida has been our home for more than three years, but we haven’t explored much beyond our immediate area.  Thanks to the prompting of good friends, Alice and Bill, we made a short visit to Winter Park with them. Bill is a consummate organizer and tour guide (and driver!), and we were the beneficiaries of their combined knowledge from previous visits.

Winter Park is a lovely walkable town east of Orlando.  Rollins College (founded in 1885) is a dominant force in the community and graces the town with its tasteful Spanish/Mediterranean architecture.  Surrounding the campus are quiet residential streets with elegant houses and expansive churches of all flavors.  Winter Park Avenue, the main street, offers four blocks of inviting small shops and restaurants, many with outside tables.  There are also two small art museums.  It was a charming and pleasant place and, for us, reminiscent of Palo Alto.  

 

The Charles Hosmer Morse Museum of American Art boasts the largest collection of Louis Comfort Tiffany’s work and his glass pieces are certainly a highlight of the museum.  It also has glass pieces, ceramics, and paintings by other artists.  

I particularly enjoyed seeing not only the gallery of Tiffany lamps, but also the re-created rooms from Laurelton Hall, Tiffany’s Long Island residence, as well as the elaborate chapel interior with its intricate mosaic work made for the Chicago exposition of 1893.

It’s a gem of a museum (the building itself architecturally pleasing) and was well worth visiting!

 

 

 

 

We also had a brief look around at Rollins College’s small art museum, Cornell Fine Arts Museum, on the edge of their campus. We didn’t realize that they closed at 4:00 pm and so had to hustle a bit to see “Towards Impressionism,” featuring works by Corot, Monet, and Harpignies (the latter new to me), and a bit of the permanent collection.  It’s noteworthy that contemporary works from the college’s collection are on display throughout the lobby and other public spaces in the Alfond Inn.

“The Misfits” by Rosalyn Drexler

Owned by the college, Alfond Inn is one of the loveliest hotels I’ve stayed in.  It’s been open for four years and still looks brand new.  The extensive main floor showcases paintings and sculpture by a variety of artists, including some lovely prism-like glass shapes hanging from a glass dome that I thought were fabulous.

There is also a large outdoor courtyard with seating and a sculpture called “The Hermit” by Jaume Plensa.    

 

I would be remiss if I didn’t say that we also ate well.  The hotel breakfast included some different fare from the usual bacon and eggs.  Lunches at the Parkview and Blu were tasty, and we sat outside watching the world go by.  Dinner was at the elegant and very contemporary Luma on Park where we sampled some creative pasta dishes, Hamachi crudo, and diver scallops.  As to shopping, we ladies bought shoes (a standalone Rieker shop) and greeting cards and browsed in Writer’s Block, a small independent bookshop, where I found Ant and Bee books for my granddaughters and succumbed to a paperback novel by an Australian writer.

All photos by JWFarrington (some rights reserved).