North Carolina Interlude

BOOK NOTE

Lest anyone think I haven’t read any books lately, here’s one I wanted to like more than I did.

In the Midst of Winter by Isabel Allende

This might be the first novel by Allende I’ve read or possibly the second.  It brings together an unlikely trio to deal with an out-of-the-ordinary surprise.  Fussy, academic Richard Bowmaster rents his basement apartment to Lucia Maraz, a professor from Chile who also teaches at NYU.  He is intrigued by her and attracted to her, but has done nothing about it.  She is lonely and would like to further her acquaintance with him beyond their professional relationship.  None of this is likely to happen until, undocumented nanny, Evelyn Ortega, shows up on his Brooklyn doorstep on a bitterly cold winter night after a snowstorm.

Evelyn’s car, her employer’s, was hit by Richard in an accident and she seeks his help.  But the help goes beyond just the damage to the car as there is a body in the trunk.  How this ill prepared threesome handles this fact and journeys upstate to deal with the dead person makes up the crux of the novel.  We learn how Richard and Lucia’s relationship develops and we get the back story of each of these individuals before they came together and, in the process, learn about recent history in Chile and Argentina.

I liked the premise of this novel and the way that Richard, and especially Lucia, rise to the challenge of helping Evelyn, but much of the action takes place as straight narrative with almost no dialogue.  It is a static novel which tells more than shows.  Interesting, but not as engaging as I expected.  (~JW Farrington)

 

NORTH CAROLINA WITH FAMILY

The Chief Penguin and I spent an activity-filled week in North Carolina over Thanksgiving visiting my sisters and their families.  We sampled the delights of Greensboro (shops, parks and a favorite restaurant), ventured to Asheboro for lunch and wildlife, explored downtown Raleigh and the Ravenscroft School campus with my niece, and then decamped for Thanksgiving Day in Chapel Hill and several brisk chilly walks, a new restaurant, and a long bookstore browse.  Here are some of the specifics:

GREENSBORO

Scuppernong Books

This cozy bookstore cum café in downtown Greensboro has a nicely chosen selection of both new and used books.  Scuppernong is a type of muscadine grape native to the area, a word that might be hard to spell, but is certainly memorable!  I was especially pleased with their children’s section and had an informative chat with the woman who buys their children’s books.

Bog Garden

On this visit, I was impressed with the work of the Greensboro Parks & Recreation Department.  My sister and I walked in the Bog Garden, close to their home which we’ve visited many times, and also checked out the Tanger Family Bicentennial Garden and the David Caldwell Historic Park.  The bog garden has a raised boardwalk and is wilder and less manicured than one might expect of a garden.  In partnership with several Audubon members, the park is engaged in removing invasive plants and putting in native plants in their place.

Print Works Bistro

Adjacent to the Proximity Hotel, this restaurant is always good, be it for breakfast or dinner.  The dining room is large with high ceilings, but is sectioned off with floor-to-ceiling billowing fabric drapes and upholstery-covered chairs which provide overall softening.  I would call the menu sophisticated comfort food, and it ranges from items such as local trout and mussels to a shrimp risotto, meatloaf or chicken schnitzel.  Breakfast fare includes the standard eggs and bacon, but also duck confit hash and a bacon and Brussels sprouts quiche.

ASHEBORO 

After a good lunch of salads and sandwiches at The Table , we continued down the road to the North Carolina Zoo.  Some folks are not enamored of zoos in general, but this one is exceptional.  It’s located in the center of the state and has many hundreds of acres with lots of room for the animals in each habitat to roam.  You get around to key points by tram and within the North American and African Habitats there are meandering paved paths that take you to the various animal sites. 

Signage is good and, being in a woodsy environment as you wander, makes it a most pleasant experience.  I especially liked seeing all the tropical birds in The Aviary and having an almost nose-to-nose encounter with a chimp.

RALEIGH

Garland

Lunch at this Indian/Asian restaurant in downtown Raleigh was perfect for our group of seven.  We liked the beef and noodle salad, tofu salad, and the vegetarian daily special.  Portions were a generous size and fortified us for several hours of shopping and walking.

CHAPEL HILL AREA

McIntyre’s Books

Friends who know me well know that I seldom pass up an opportunity to visit a bookstore, particularly an independent one.  I’ve patronized McIntyre’s at Fearrington Village for many years and it’s always a pleasure to spend an hour here.  With the holidays soon upon us, the shelves and tables were overflowing with stock and notes of staff recommendations. It was very easy to find gifts for family as well as a paperback for myself!

Venable Rotisserie Bistro

A new restaurant in Carrboro recommended by my sister and brother-in-law who’d dined there once before, Venable was a great place for the day after Thanksgiving.  Casual with wood flooring and bare wood tables, family groups and couples were scattered around the dining room.  Two of us tucked into the chipotle glazed salmon on a bed of spinach with sinfully rich whipped potatoes while the men enjoyed fried chicken (really a breaded chicken paillard with arugula) and North Carolina trout topped with bok choy.  Very good “elevated comfort food” as the restaurant calls it!

Photos by JWFarrington.

Down Under: Parting Shots

NEW ZEALAND VIEWS

Our time here is almost over, and it seems appropriate to gather together some of my favorite photos from the trip.

Note:   All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Ate more chips this trip than ever!
Auckland near lots of law offices
Waiheke Island view
Around Napier
Urban Winery
Oamaru Public Gardens
From the Navigator, Doubtful Sound cruise
Mt. Cook in the background
Sunset over Te Anau
Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu
Arrowtown, historic Chinese Settlement
Arrowtown, Lakes District Museum exhibit
At Arrow Thai, yummy green curry with chicken!
Moeraki Boulders
More sheep!
Picton waterfront
In Wellington
Banks Peninsula
Tussocks, Lake Tekapo
Marlborough region
Queen Charlotte Sound
Brancott Estate Vineyard
Wellington Wharf
The Boatshed, Waiheke

Down Under: Arrowtown

IN ARROWTOWN

We drove from Manapouri on Wednesday, after our overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound, to Arrowtown, which is about half an hour from Queenstown. It wasn’t a long drive, but it rained much of the way and the last 45 minutes or so were on the now familiar narrow, winding roads around the mountains. A very narrow one lane bridge was a bit unnerving since it wasn’t really clear who had the right away. We arrived in charming Arrowtown and the Arrowtown House Boutique Hotel around 3:00 pm. When the rain let up a bit, we decided to walk into town.  

 

Arrowtown is a former gold mining village and sits in a valley surrounded by more beautiful mountains. The flowering trees, cherry and apple, are in full bloom and many houses have elaborate gardens of rhododendrons, tulips, and, what I would call, wild roses, but are probably just another subspecies of rose.

Many buildings date from the 19th century and are wood framed and well preserved.

St. Patrick’s Catholic Church
Masonic Lodge

The main street is not that long, but is dotted with plenty of upscale galleries and gift shops, an inviting wine store, a small museum which we plan to explore, and more restaurants and cafes than you might expect in a town this small. There was a mix of people on the street, older and young, walkers and backpackers, and Asian (Chinese and Indian, it would appear) as well as white. There is also a historic Chinese settlement here that we will also visit.

DINING

We dined our first night at La Rumbla, a delicious tapas restaurant where we had fun bantering with our French waiter about the food and what wine by the glass we should choose. For lunch the next day we tried Mantra, an Indian restaurant. 

The interior is beautiful with magenta on the chair seats and wall and pink flowers in tubs.

We opted for the lamb rogan josh thali, which meant the delicious lamb came with basmati rice, lentils, potatoes and peas, raita, spicy pickle, and both poppadums and poori. Some of the best Indian food I’ve had! 

Thursday night, on the recommendation of our hotel, we went to Postmaster’s Residence, a cozy restaurant with a wood stove in its main room. We were the first to arrive, but soon the side room was full of diners old and young. The pan-fried fish of the day (gurnard, I believe) was excellent, served with capers, perfectly cooked broccoli, cauliflower and carrot rounds, and roast potatoes.

STOPPING IN QUEENSTOWN

It is so near we figured we had to make the short drive over to Queenstown. Thursday was sunny and we stopped to take a few more photos of the lovely shades of green on the mountain before going into the center of town to a parking garage. Navigating a tight garage when you have to remember to always be left is a definite test for the driver!

We wandered around Queenstown for about an hour noting how busy and lively it was (especially compared to Arrowtown), the large number of hikers and back packers, and along the lake, the many options for jet boat rides, wind gliding, and other water sports. The skyline was gorgeous on this bright blue-sky day!

The public garden also fronts on the water and we strolled up the hill and immersed ourselves in spring in the beds of bright pink and yellow tulips. We’re glad we made a point of seeing Queenstown, but were very happy to return to our abode in Arrowtown!

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved.)

Down Under: Doubtful Sound

DOUBTFUL SOUND

To experience Doubtful Sound, you have to be willing to put up with several stages to get there. It’s located on the coast of southwest New Zealand, and you first have to get yourself to Pearl Harbor in Manapouri. Lake Manapouri is another of the very very deep (1400+ feet at its deepest) glacial lakes here on the edge of Fiordland National Park and about 20 minutes’ drive from Te Anau. We reported to the Real Journeys ticket office around 11:30 and exchanged our voucher for boarding passes and then went downstairs to the café for a bite to eat. Not many options, but a few calories before we boarded a boat to take us across the lake to West Arm. Lake crossing very smooth.

At West Arm, site of the massive hydroelectric power plant that made these excursions possible, we got on a bus for the drive through Wilmot Pass. The decision in the 1960’s to build a power plant here required the creation of a road that would enable heavy equipment to be brought in to construct the plant. Hence the road that leads from West Arm to Deep Cove.

It was an interesting drive on a narrow road with commentary by Keith, our bus driver.  He described the alpine vegetation, heavily evergreen and beech trees that stay green all year; noted that the area gets between 6 and 9 meters of rain a year (that’s between 18 and 27 feet of rain, folks!) resulting in many thread-like waterfalls; and pointed out the occasional native bird, one being the waka. The trip through the pass took 45 minutes or so with stops for photos. 

We then arrived at the wharf at Deep Cove where we boarded Real Journeys Navigator, the vessel on which we would spend the rest of the afternoon and overnight.

The Navigator was purpose built for these waters and can accommodate up to 70 people, some in staterooms with bath, some in bunk bed quads with a shared facility.  We were fortunate that our group was less than 40 people which made for a less crowded experience.  We had cabin #12 which consisted of a double bed, one night stand, and a very tiny bathroom. You weren’t meant to spend any time there!  But, amazingly, the little shower actually worked and delivered an adequate supply of warm to hot water to get clean while not spraying the rest of that space!

Doubtful Sound’s name is attributed to Capt. James Cook who, when he saw Doubtful Sound, “doubted” that his sailing vessel would be able to get enough wind to sail through it and so he never did. Doubtful Sound is really a fiord, meaning that this finger of water was created by the action of a glacier, but the term “fiord” was not as much in use then.  Many visitors to New Zealand choose to go to Milford Sound which is more accessible, but it’s much much smaller in area than Doubtful and a lot less deep.

We boarded the Navigator just before 2:30 pm and after the required safety briefing, introductions to the crew members, and assignment of our cabins, we were offered hot soup—a choice between mushroom or gluten free (yes, that is a menu option here) curried vegetable. We opted for the vegetable soup and it was delicious!  About two hours into the cruise, anyone who wished to could go exploring in a kayak or see more in a tender that held up to 18 people. It was cloudy, cold, and raw outside; hence we and several others stayed on board during this pause. Overall, the cruise was quite smooth except for one 20-30 minute stretch when we made it out to the Tasman Sea. My head didn’t really like that rocky, rolling and sideways motion!  Once we turned back into the sound, it became calm again.    

Carol, the nature guide on board, made frequent comments on the islands we passed, the waterfalls, and any sightings of wildlife. We did stop to view a seal colony and, for the very sharp-eyed, there were sightings of dolphins and the occasional penguin.

Food on board was plentiful (brownies and jelly cakes after the on-the-water excursion) and the dinner buffet tasty—everything from four different salads to several hot vegetables and rice, chicken, carved lamb and beef roasts and desserts and cheese. Wine and beer were on you, and I had a glass of an excellent Chardonnay from Martinborough, a town we had planned to stop in, but didn’t when it was raining hard. We anchored for the night and all was peaceful making for a quite a good sleep. We were the first arrivals for breakfast at 7:00 am.

The remainder of the voyage included several other stops to view more penguins and, something I really appreciated, an interlude of quiet. The ship’s engines were turned off, and everyone was requested to stand quietly on deck with no talking and no camera clicking and to just listen to the sounds of nature. I heard the rush of waterfalls and the occasional bird tweeting, but that was it. Just Mother Nature in all her beauty.  

Doubtful Sound is made up of muted colors—dark, almost black water, looming dark mountains, lots of mist, gray clouds, ribbon-like waterfalls, and here and there shades of green on the lower elevations. We had mostly heavy cloud cover until, several hours after sunrise, we got a bit of sun which enhanced the greens. The mist and the gray add an element of mystery to this remote place.  There are no people living here and no boats; it’s just nature.

Back at Deep Cove at 10:00 am, we disembarked, boarded the bus and retraced our path back across the pass to West Arm where we got on the smaller boat to cross Lake Manapouri back to Pearl Harbor. 

We collected our car and then had delicious hamburgers for lunch at The Church, an old church, now a pub complete with pool table.  We then drove east, through a landscape empty except for sheep, toward Queenstown and Arrowtown, our destination. The last half hour in the rain was another winding, twisting, up and down road with many roundabouts around Queenstown.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved)