View of cove at Molly’s Point

Departing Maine & Arriving Florida

WINDING DOWN MAINE

Our airline threw us a curve when it changed our departing flight from a very civilized 12:45 pm to before sunrise at 6:00 am.  Thus, we left our rental house a day early, drove down to Portland and spent the night at the airport Hilton Garden Inn,.  We’d been told that the hotel was offering no services (no food, no shuttle) and that it was mostly empty.  Imagine our surprise, when we arrived and learned that they were sold out that night!  Granted, it was the Saturday of Labor Day weekend, but early in the week, the hotel gentleman had said everyone’s gone home, back to school and so on.  

We took an Uber to downtown Portland, the Old Port area, our first time there this summer, and wandered around a bit.  Many streets in that neighborhood are closed off and restaurants abound, offering food and drink outside in properly spaced tables and booths.  There were more people on the street than I’d seen anywhere.

Creative way to offer drinks and food

We had booked an early table on the patio (really in the street) for dinner at Petite Jacqueline, a bistro we’d frequented in the past.  The tables were appropriately distanced, and all the staff were wearing masks.  It was a treat to be waited upon and served.  We enjoyed a panzanella salad and roasted Brussels sprouts followed by lobster rolls with tarragon mayonnaise and a stack of sinful skinny fries.

FLYING IN THE AGE OF COVID

Maine is serious about social distancing and wearing masks and there were signs and announcements galore at the Portland airport.  It’s paid off because they have one of the lowest numbers of cases and deaths of any state in the U.S.  

American Airlines was also serious.  Although they don’t block off any seats on the planes, they required everyone to be wearing a mask. The flight attendants on both flights went up and down the aisle several times checking.  They also warned that noncompliant passengers could be denied the right to fly with them in the future.  No food or drink was offered.

In the Charlotte airport, there were also announcements about masks, but they didn’t sound as forceful as those in Portland.  I did see a couple of individuals without masks.  And I was struck by how busy this airport was—-many more people traveling than when we’d flown on a Tuesday in mid-July!  

Both our flights boarded efficiently, left on time, and arrived on time or few minutes early.  Deplaning was done by rows from the front.  Passengers were requested to wait seated until the row in front of them had been vacated, and folks seem to cooperate with this instruction.  All in all, I felt as safe as was possible given everything.

FLORIDA RE-ENTRY

mangroves along the bay
Mangroves overlooking Sarasota Bay

When we left home in July, the state of Florida was a Covid-19 hotspot.  Our area wasn’t as bad as Miami-Dade, but still far too many new cases each week and very spotty mask requirements or enforcement.  Now, there are more signs about masks and, it seems more people are being observant.  Before we left town, Fresh Market required masks to enter, but Publix supermarkets did not.  We are pleased that now masks are required for entering a Publix.

The Hannaford stores in Maine made their grocery aisles one way with green arrows on the floor on one end and red exit signs at the other.  I’d gotten so used to this that I kept expecting to see a green arrow in Publix allowing me to proceed down the aisle, but not so.  

It was 57 degrees when we woke up in Maine on Saturday, 82 the afternoon before in Portland, and 80 this morning here in Florida with a predicted high of 94!  Boy, did I love the cool pleasant air of the Maine coast!

VIEWING

Radioactive (Amazon Prime)
Rosamund Pike (the guardian.com)

I didn’t realize until this film was almost over that it is based on Lauren Redniss’ 2010 graphic novel of the same name.  That’s a colorful arty book chock full of information.   I had read it with science book club I facilitated at the Academy of Sciences in San Franciso. 

Marie Curie, its subject, was a passionate, arrogant, brilliant, driven woman.  She loved science and was determined to do science no matter who or what might get in her way.  The film recounts her struggle to get lab space, her attraction to and then marriage to Pierre Curie, and their joint work on radium.  That same radium sickened them both and he died an early death.  Madame Curie was passionate in her personal life also. Her later affair with a married man sullied her somewhat suspect reputation as a “dirty Pole.”  

The film is gripping and full of emotion.  It is less successful with the interjection of more contemporary events, such as the use of radiation to treat cancer or the tragedies of Hiroshima and Chernobyl.  While these events highlight the positive and negative sides of the Curies’ discoveries, they are jarring interruptions in the arc of Marie’s life.  Nonetheless, definitely worth watching! (~JWFarrington)

Note: Header photo and other unattributed photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).
  

Florida Frolic: St. Augustine

FLORIDA FROLIC:  ST. AUGUSTINE

In our quest to become better acquainted with our home state, we’ve been taking short trips to cities not that far from us.  For the last two years, we and good friends made a December trip to Winter Park to visit the museums, cruise on the lake, and sample the local eateries.  This year, our destination was St. Augustine, the oldest city in the United States, located on the east coast, and about four and half hours away.  Christmas was the theme and there were several decorated trees in the square, plenty of holiday lights, and an overall festive feel.  

St. George Street is pedestrian only and the main drag in the historic district.  To be frank, our initial impression was a negative one.  Too many souvenir shops, too many hokey “historic” sites, and a plethora of pubs and bars.  It seemed a combination of Lake George Village and the worst of the Jersey Shore.  Add to that our inauspicious lunch at the Bull & Crown marked by glacial service and, with the exception of the delicious sausage rolls, food that was just average.

With a bit more poking around, life improved.  We discovered some attractive shops and galleries, we toured the main Flagler College building which was formerly the very luxurious Hotel Ponce Leon, and we signed on for an Old Town Trolley excursion around the city.  

Fountain in courtyard at Flagler College

This hour and a half ride (you can get on and off at any stop all day long, but we didn’t) gave us a good feel for what’s here—from the Fountain of Youth Park to the first Ripley’s Believe It or Not museum, to the distillery, to the historic fort, to several architecturally distinguished churches, to the Lincolnville Neighborhood with its distinctive frame houses.  Our trolley drivers made too many references to discounts and which attractions were free, but otherwise they were informative.  

Given that we like good food, we selected restaurants ahead of our arrival.  The two dinners and our second lunch were all delicious.  Here’s where we ate. We’d happily return to any one of these restaurants.

Collage.  I’d call their food continental, rather than French.  In any case, the small dining room is an elegant coral-walled space and the dinner service was most professional.  Several of us had the yummy carrot datil bisque to start followed by bronzino on a bed of spaghetti squash and couscous with cherry tomatoes.  Others enjoyed the superb black grouper and the diver sea scallops.  Datil peppers, hot like Scotch bonnets, are grown locally. 

Black grouper entree

Sangrias Wine & Tapas Bar. We were the only diners at Sangrias at lunchtime, but the food exceeded expectations.  We ordered the chicken pesto wrap and the crab cakes with salad along with a few beers. Our food appeared quickly and everything was tasty.

Catch 27.  This is a casual place that serves excellent food, all very fresh.  We dug into the trio of dips (guacamole, pimento cheese fondue, and pico de gallo) with chips to start.  The guys began with Minorcan seafood chowder, and then we were on to flounder with risotto and sherry cream and red sorrel that was amazing, buttermilk fried chicken, and fish tacos with a house salad.  Everything was supremely good!

Penguin cheer

St. George Inn.  We stayed overnight here (this hotel consists of six buildings around the historic area) and found their wine bar, Bin 39, most inviting in the evening.  It was also the breakfast room each morning. We were pleased that the small buffet included bagels, croissants, bread, cheddar cheese, sliced ham, and salami with a selection of jams and spreads.  Just about perfect to begin a day of sightseeing!

Note: Photos and text ©JWFarrington.

Out & About: History in North Carolina

VISITING NORTH CAROLINA

How I spent my summer vacation.  Wrong season, how I spent Thanksgiving week.  The Chief Penguin and I were in North Carolina to visit my sisters and their families and spent time in both Greensboro and Chapel Hill with brisk walks to Greensboro’s Bog and Centennial Gardens, excursions to Winston-Salem, to the marvelous McIntyre’s Books in Fearrington Village, and to the Kidzu Children’s Museum for a morning with three lively little girls.  

REYNOLDA HOUSE MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART

Located in Winston-Salem, the former home of R. J. and Katharine Reynolds, of tobacco fame, is worth a tour.  The house was built in 1917.  R. J. died in 1918, and Katharine only lived until 1924, but she was both enterprising and ahead of her time and founded a school for the black children of the staff.   Of greater interest, perhaps than the house, is the range of special exhibits on offer throughout the year in the museum wing.  This season it is:  Leyendecker and the Golden Age of American Illustration.  J.C. Leyendecker and his brother, Frank, were both artists, but J.C. had the more notable career.

Couple on Horseback (1904)

Over his lifetime, J.C.  produced 322 covers for The Saturday Evening Post in addition to ones for Collier’s Magazine and illustrations for Arrow collars and men’s clothing.

Arrow Collar Man

  J.C. also introduced the idea of using a baby to represent the beginning of a new year and drew 40 New Year’s covers for the Post.  

Created in the early part of the 20th century, his depictions of African Americans and everyday people reflect the racial and social climate of the time.  This is a fascinating exhibit on many levels.

THE CAROLINA INN

Carolina Inn anticipating the Christmas season

Built by a University of North Carolina alumnus, opened in 1924, and later gifted to the university, this charming inn in Chapel Hill is a paean to the achievements of its faculty and alumni.  Throughout the halls are plaques and photographs testifying to the accomplishments of the many individuals who were educated here.  You feel a bit like you will turn baby blue in hue before you leave!  

There is lots of history recorded here, and it’s significant to note that while blacks worked in the hotel, the first black guest, for lunch, not overnight, was Martin Luther King, Jr. in 1963.  Such a short time ago—so much has changed for the better, but not everything.  Fast forward to the present day, and I enjoyed watching family groups arrive for Thanksgiving Dinner, all ages and multiple generations, white, Hispanic, and black. 

It is not Christmas yet, but our family group was delighted with the inn’s creative, whimsical, and fun displays of the Twelve Days of Christmas.  The days were scattered out of order around the lobby and main floor, and my older granddaughter and I made many treks around finding each number and then reading about the artist.  

Five Golden Rings

Highlights for both granddaughters were Two Turtle Doves (live ones), Four Calling Birds, a display that included four ticking cuckoo clocks, and Five Golden Rings, five desk telephones spray painted sparkling gold. 

 It provided great post-breakfast entertainment along with this year’s tree with its theme of “visions of sugar plums.”

RECENT READING

America’s First Daughter by Stephanie Dray & Laura Kamoie

This is the first of two Colonial period historical novels by this pair. I read their most recent one, My Dear Hamilton, first and enjoyed it so much that I was drawn to this one about Thomas Jefferson’s daughter, Martha, known to him and her siblings as Patsy.  Patsy’s mother died when she was only nine and she promised her mother that she would always take care of her father.  That promise to care for her father and, by extension, guard his legacy, led her to sacrifice her own happiness and to keep dark and dangerous secrets.  

The authors did extensive research for the novel and have used quotations from the archive of Jefferson’s correspondence to begin every chapter.  As the novel opens, Jefferson has died, and Patsy is going through his papers and deciding what letters may be kept and which ones destroyed in order to preserve his reputation as a great statesman. Through the years, we see Patsy mature from childhood to teen to adult as his helpmate, his confident, and as a skilled political hostess in Paris and Washington.  Later, as the wife of a Virginia plantation owner, she manages hearth and children (ten in all) at their home and some of the time at Monticello, always attended by slave labor and the ever-present Sally Hemings.  The result is a rich portrait of a woman who both chafed against the strictures of her time and simultaneously, ignored or denied unpleasant truths.  Reading this I came away with a perspective on a less noble, flawed Thomas Jefferson.

Note: All text and photos ©JWFarrington. Header photo taken at Kidzu Children’s Museum.

Greece: Athens & Environs

After our highlights tour, we had four more full days in Athens.  You might wonder what we did.  After checking into the Ava Hotel, a boutique hotel nicely located in the Plaka neighborhood, we just wandered the neighborhood enjoying lunch at Yiosemi, a nearby café where the cheese pie and the orange pie (really cake) were yummy. Then we dined on an outside upper level terrace with a marvelous view of the Acropolis.  It’s stunning at night and the Parthenon especially, lit from within with a golden light while the other lights are whiter.  

Backdrop at Yiosemi

The next day we had the morning free for catching up on paperwork, as the Chief Penguin would say, or for me writing my latest blog post.  That afternoon after lunch at Adrianos (another Greek salad and some meatballs) we went to Cape Sounio, about an hour and a quarter south, to see the Temple of Poseidon.  Poseidon was the god of the sea.   

Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounio

Our driver was again the marvelous Kostas.  Kostas had been with us on our all day highlights tour and is both a skilled driver and a warm and friendly guy who shared comments on the scenery and Greek life.  Our tour guide this day was Helen, who like all our guides, completed the three year Greek guide training course, and was very well versed in the history and importance of the ancient sites.  

The Temple of Poseidon commands a spectacular location high above Sounio Bay looking out over several islands.  This site has had little restoration and much of the temple is missing, but it is worth visiting.  Flightless birds, a turtle and other wildlife added interest.  And again, as we were up high, it was exceedingly windy!  Helen told us that the waters below in this area are especially challenging for mariners.

Our son, Tim, and his good friend, Dino, had both recommended that we visit Sounio and also that we make the trek to Delphi.  Delphi is the site of the temple to Apollo, god of the sun, and also where the Oracle at Delphi delivered prophecies and answers to questions.  I well remember first learning about the oracle when I studied Latin in high school.  At Delphi there is both the site which includes remains of the temple, but also a stadium, a theater, and treasure houses.  There was a series of treasure houses, each one for the elaborate gifts to Apollo from a particular city.  Once these treasures were handed over, they were not given back nor were they visitable. 

Temple of Apollo at Delphi

Kostas was our driver once more, and this time, Georgia was our guide.  She took us first to the Delphi Museum which contains a comprehensive collection of statues, sculptures and the like from all the historical periods in Ancient Greece.  Some of them are in great condition, others less so, but the lighting is just right, and it was a great way to start our tour.  

Youth Antinoos who drowned in the Nile (1st century AD)

With Georgia’s commentary in the museum in mind, we were better able to visualize Delphi as it might have looked thousands of years ago. 

 The trip to Delphi is long, 2 ½ hours by car each way, but along the way we saw lots of greenery, agricultural fields, and then we began climbing into the mountains.  Delphi is gorgeous with the mountains around it and the setting only adds to the experience. Kostas introduced us to a great little family restaurant in the town, To Patriko Mas, where we enjoyed another Greek salad and some grilled shrimp (langoustines, really, with their heads).

On our last full day, we walked, and I mean WALKED!  The Chief Penguin and I logged more than 20,000 steps or 7+ miles!  Our morning walk was to the National Garden and then on to view the Academy of Athens, a magnificent structure with gold and other colors on the pediment—gave us an appreciation of what the ancient temples must have looked like!  

Partial view of the Academy of Athens

Back to the hotel before a 40 minute walk, partly uphill, to lunch in a small restaurant in a courtyard called Ama Lachei.  Here we had our best meal in Athens.  After this indulgent lunch of lamb, chicken, Greek salad, and cheese croquettes plus wine, we walked through the local farmers’ market (what a colorful array of tomatoes, eggplants, lettuces and peppers) and then meandered the long way back taking in some of the sights in the Monastiraki district.  

Lamb kebab with tatziki and pita bread

We were booked at another fine restaurant farther away for the evening, but opted to return to To Kafeneio where we had had dinner previously.  This time we ordered just a few snacks including the lemony dolmades (stuffed grape leaves).  We changed the clocks back an hour, slept longer than usual, and arose to begin a very long day which will end in our arrival at Newark Airport late tonight!

I should note that all but one of the restaurants we sampled were recommended by and booked for us by the folks at Journy.com. This online travel specialist provided us with a daily plan of suggested activities as well as restaurants for both here and Rome. We highly recommend them!

Sidewalks in Athens are usually stone, most gray, but some this pinky red color or yellow, and done in blocks of 49 little tiles. Can be a bit slippery.

Note: All text and photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo is the mountainside town of Arachova, on the way to Delphi.