Category: Travel

Religious Israel: Haifa & Jerusalem

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SNATCHES OF ISRAEL

The Chief Penguin and I were last in Israel in 1999, and then only in Jerusalem.  He had been several times before and to Haifa and Tel-Aviv.  The trip was for a library conference for me and he was the accompanying spouse.  For my librarian friends, it was the annual IFLA (International Federation of Library Associations) Conference and, I served on a committee representing the American Library Association.  We stayed at the elegant King David Hotel, had a private tour of Jerusalem highlights, and enjoyed an exhibit of Chihuly glass at one of the museums.  It was late August and very hot and dry.

This time on our cruise, we docked at Haifa and Ashdod, the country’s largest port.

Gardens in Haifa

Haifa is Israel’s third largest city after Jerusalem Tel-Aviv and, at one time, was a center for preparing dyes.  Like many cities in this part of the Mediterranean world, it has was ruled by a succession of foreign invaders:  in their case, Byzantines, Arabs, Crusaders, Ottomans, Egyptians, and British. Its importance as a regional port city was greatest during the British mandate period.  Today the port mainly serves only Israel.  Industries here include oil refineries and chemical plants.

One of the many terraces on the way down to the shrine at the Hanging Gardens

Built on the slopes of Mt. Carmel, Haifa has lovely setting overlooking the water.  We decided to visit the Baha’i Gardens (also known as the Hanging Gardens of Haifa) and initially thought about walking the roughly one hour up the hill to the entrance.  Fortunately, common sense prevailed and we decided we’d taxi up and then walk back down to the ship.  Our taxi wound up and around and let us out at one of the garden entrances.  We assumed we could explore them on our own, only to be informed that you only went with a tour group.  The next English tour was in two hours!  But we could join the Russian tour if we wished.

Shrine to founder Bab at the end of the garden terraces

So, Russian tour it was, and we followed the guide and his group, looking around and taking photos, but understanding not a word!  The terraced gardens are really more of a memorial to the Baha’i founder, Bab, ending in a  stunning gold-domed shrine, than a garden.  There are red geraniums around as well as zinnias and pampas grass along with a lot of greenery, but the focus is the different levels of staircases leading down to the shrine.  700 steps done in about 45 minutes!  (Fortunately, there are handrails most of the way.)  The views of the dome, the city below and the harbor behind are quite spectacular and worth seeing.

View of the terraces all linked by descending staircases

After this endeavor, we were hot and a bit worn out.  No walking back to the ship, just another taxi back to the port.  

Ashdod and Jerusalem

From Haifa we sailed overnight to Ashdod, the country’s sixth largest city and biggest port.  Tankers, cranes, and rows and rows of new cars fill this port; the cars waiting to be shipped to Europe or Asia.  Located in Israel’s Southern District on the Mediterranean Sea, Ashdod is between Tel-Aviv in the north and Jerusalem in the east.  

We and our friends had signed up for private all day tour of Jerusalem and were met at the port by our driver and guide, Avi.  Avi is an Israeli Jew, who lived during his youth in Paris and Belgium among other places. He speaks fluent French and Arabic besides the usual English and Hebrew.  He was a terrific guide:  knowledgeable, easy going, and accommodating!

This was one of several days of holiday for Jerusalem and we had been warned to expect heavier than usual traffic and crowds.  The traffic was a mess (a “balagan” as Avi called it) and the crowds extremely dense.   Some roads were blocked which limited our van’s access to certain sites.

We began at the Mount of Olives (see header photo) where parking wasn’t too difficult and the crowds were okay.  We spent 15-20 minutes there overlooking the old Jewish cemetery, Dome of the Rock (Muslim shrine dating back to 691-692 CE) with its lustrous gold dome, and the ancient walls surrounding the old city.  

Visitors in the Old City

Getting into the heart of the old city required patience and persistence.  Avi dropped us off near the Jaffa Gate and instructed us to go wait at the Aroma coffee bar.  He thought he would be back in 20 minutes, but it was more like 35, given where he finally found parking!  In the meantime, we watched Israelis of all flavors stream by, some dressed up, some carrying palms for the religious holiday, some Orthodox Jews all in black with top hats or fur hats (the latter only worn on special occasions), and some few just ordinary tourists like us.  

With Avi, we walked through the Armenian, Jewish, Christian and Muslim quarters of the Old City including the Cardo, or old Roman main street, and inched our way up and along the Via Dolorosa (supposedly where Jesus walked on the way to his crucifixion). After a tasty lunch of salmon and quiches, we went to the Wailing Wall (part of the Western Wall and a very holy site for prayer), and then back to the Christian Quarter for the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  The Wailing Wall is divided into one section for men and another for women.  Since we had eaten on the early side, the crowds at the wall were a bit less, and Ellen and I could actually get right up to it to touch.  There are tiny slips of paper available for anyone who wishes to write a message and stick it in the wall.  

An observant Jew

Appropriately, our last stop was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  According to tradition, it’s the site where Jesus was crucified, called Calvary or Golgotha, and also that of his empty tomb.  With the crowds, moving along was slow and it was occasionally hard to see, but we got the general idea.  I had been to the Wailing Wall on my last visit, but not to this church.

Avi was prepared to take us to see more, but given the crush of people and everything, we opted to end our tour early.  I also took fewer photos than usual because of the crowding. (And the ones I took on my iPhone don’t upload to my iPad, where I compose the blog, because of slow WiFi speeds, hence fewer photos of the Old City.). Back in the van, it was about an hour’s ride back to Ashdod and the ship.

Jerusalem is often crowded, people get pushy, and visiting can be a strenuous exercise.  Yet, for anyone brought up in a faith, be it Jewish, Christian, or Muslim, it is a powerful experience to see where the events of the Bible, in my case, took place.  And to get a sense of the geography and particulars of the ancient world.  

Tonight we sail on to Paphos, Cyprus.

Note: Photos and all text ©JWFarrington. Header photo is a view from the Mount of Olives.

Mexican Pyramids

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PYRAMIDS
Today was the day to go back in time, way back, as they say. We were picked up promptly at 8:00 am by the same exuberant guide as yesterday, Mercedes, and her skillful driver Lalo. The Chief Penguin had not met them yesterday and Mercedes was so delighted to see him, she practically embraced him! The Teotihuacans lived less than an hour from the city from 100 to 750 AD. It’s not clear what led to their demise, but theories center around internal fighting and a series of destructive fires. In any case, these people built some very impressive pyramids and a whole city that thrived for more than 600 years.


On the way out of town, we saw the mountains that surround Mexico City and clusters of houses built up the mountain side and the cable cars that provide transport between these communities. These are not the homes of the wealthy, but rather the workers, plumbers, electricians and the like. The houses appeared to be stucco and were painted in solid bright colors. Mercedes told us that a leader might draw individuals together and then they would all paint their houses the same color. In addition to scattered shots of different colors, I saw clusters of hot pink and deep turquoise and even some yellow.

Piramide del Sol

There are a series of entrances or gates to Teotihuacan (“the place of gods”) taking you to different parts of this ancient city. Given that it was a Sunday when entry is free to Mexican nationals, there was already a line of cars. Mercedes decided we should go out of order from the usual route and see the Piramide del Sol (Pyramid of the Sun) first. It is the largest and tallest at 70 meters or approximately 230 feet high. The construction is more elaborate than one might think with layers of stones surrounded by mortar and pebbles and then solid layers and more layers piled on that. There are sets of steep stone steps (straight up, no slant, very narrow and no railings) and, if you are ambitious or fit or just determined, you can climb to the top. We found that going up to the first of five levels was enough for us—a real stretch for my knees!

You might think that the Sun would be at one end of the Avenue of the Dead running through the city, but it is on the side and the Piramide de la Luna (Pyramid of the Moon), shorter at only 46 meters, anchors the end with a lovely, more intimate plaza.

Piramide de la Luna

At the Moon plaza, Mercedes had us stand in a particular spot to feel the energy, and we had a few minutes of guided meditation, reminiscent of what sometimes we do in my yoga class.

Patio of Pillars at Palacio Quetzalpapalotl

We also made brief stops at Palacio Quetzalpapalotl, at the remains of the Temple of the Mythological Animals and the Temple of the Feathered Serpent (at the far end opposite Moon) where we could see the reddish color used on the walls and some of the artistry painted on the stone. Overall, Teotihuacan is an amazing accomplishment and we only saw the highlights. Although there were crowds of people, they and we were dwarfed by these manmade structures!

In the Temple of the Feathered Serpent

The Chief Penguin had missed yesterday’s outing to central Mexico City so we returned for brief views of the Diego Rivera murals in the National Palace, the interior of the main cathedral, Aztecs performing in the street, and the central post office. We even got to watch a noisy parade (looked political from the banners) pass by.

DINING NOTES
After our outings, we had dinner at our hotel the past two nights. Grilled chicken with sautéed veggies for me one night and a tasty salmon the next. We think the chef must be lonely since we have been the only diners, but perhaps that was due to the early hour at which we chose to eat.

Saks down the street has become our regular lunch place and it’s very good! Yesterday, after only munching on cookies and downing lots of water during our excursion, we went Mexican at the fashionable hour of 2:00 pm and ordered enchiladas, beers, and guacamole.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved). Header photo shows people at the top of the Pyramid of the Sun.

Mexico City: Eating & Seeing

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DINING OUT
The breakfast menu at our hotel is a straightforward one built around eggs. Eggs Mexican style, scrambled eggs with various add-ones, a variety of omelet choices, and chilaquiles, pieces of fried tortilla cooked in red sauce and topped with cheese and often eggs or chicken. All the egg dishes come with a side of black beans. Besides a medley of cut up melon and pineapple, the only totally non-egg dish is hot cakes made with mascarpone and lemon.

Chilaquiles with chicken and a side of beans

Last night we dined at Limosneros, an attractive and innovative restaurant serving a wide variety of tacos and appetizers plus entrees. We were told that fashionable dining in Mexico happens after 7:30 pm and often later, but we’ve discovered that the two restaurants we’ve gone to for dinner could take us as early as 6:30, and we weren’t the only diners, by long shot. Probably because these two establishments open for lunch at 1:30 and stay open through dinner.

Table at Limosneros

At Limosneros we shared the crispy hibiscus tacos (wrapped up tight taquito style) stuck in a mound of guacamole and salsa; burnt chilies, a board of red, green and yellow sweet peppers blistered and served with pineapple and wedges of Brie; Oaxaca croquettes with a spicy dipping sauce; and a pork-stuffed pasilla pepper glued to a mini purple tortilla with a thin layer of peanut sauce. The Chief Penguin tried a featured cocktail made with a corn liquor while I sipped a glass of Albariño. Lots of different tastes and textures in these dishes!

SIGHTSEEING
Before dinner last evening, we took an Uber (in plentiful supply) to Alameda Central, a lovely oasis in the heart of the business district and home to the Palacio de Bellas Artes. The park itself has lots of ornate wrought iron benches and formally laid out paths along with tall stately trees and several fountains and sculptures. It’s a fine place to sit and observe the world.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The Palacio de Bellas Artes was started in 1894 and completed about 1930 and is stunning with a beautiful golden cupola. We saw it in the soft evening light before sunset and then hurried down to view the Catedral Metropolitana in the same yellow light.

This cathedral is the one of, if not the largest, in North America. With its twin bell towers, it faces and looms over the Zocalo or public square.

We wandered a bit more and made our way to Limosneros; our total step count for the day was nearly 19,000 or seven miles!

Today’s activity was a guided tour of some of the sights of historic Mexico City. Guide Mercedes is a warm and enthusiastic older woman full of knowledge of the history of her country. A former teacher who came from wealth, she wanted to be and do more than she was doing as a wife and mother. She was adamant that I hear about the various ethnic groups that lived and flourished in Mexico over the centuries and gave a very thorough overview. She said I needed the context before seeing the Diego Rivera murals in the Palacio Nacional, the seat of the government.
This Palacio is striking on the outside, but the murals lining the stairwell walls between the main floor and the second floor are truly amazing.

Detail from the Rivera history murals

So much history conveyed visually and so fresh looking even though they were created more than 50 years ago! Also on the second floor are more Rivera paintings of other aspects of Mexican life.

The central post office building was a surprising gem with inside an impressive double staircase and very lavish detailing. With its church-like aura, hard to believe its business was the mundane one of selling stamps! On this outing, we also went inside the cathedral and admired the altar of the kings and then went on to the archaeological site called Templo Mayor. This is an excavation of a portion of a pyramid that existed under and near the current cathedral. Its location was only re-discovered in 1978 when electric workers uncovered a monolith. The site keeps getting developed and there is a lot of information posted about what this settlement probably looked like.

Mercedes chatted up these two police officers while nearby I got out my good camera.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Mexico City: First Explorations

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ARRIVING IN MEXICO

On Thursday we were up at 4:15 to get to SRQ for our 7:30 am Atlanta flight and then on to Mexico City. Relatively smooth flights with no delays, even arrived early. The immigration line was quite long, but kept moving and after half an hour we had been admitted to Mexico. We claimed our bags which were already unloaded and then connected with our driver and his compatriot for the 40 minute drive to our hotel. Along the way, many jacaranda trees in bloom, such a lovely shade of purple, and plenty of concrete buildings with plain fronts painted in one solid color—everything from mustard yellow to midnight blue to bright turquoise and even some pinks and magentas.

The Wild Oscar is a small boutique hotel with a slightly funky vibe and so discreetly located, across the street from an elementary school, that you don’t know it’s there until you go down the half hidden steps and see the sign just at the entrance. Furnishings are mostly contemporary in dark woods and black trim and black stone.

Lobby and dining area at the Wild Oscar

We have a smallish room with a balcony and all the usual accoutrements, but only one desk chair inside and one outside chair on the balcony. The hotel is named for Oscar Wilde and I need to inquire why. Each elevator has a quote from Wilde done in cursive in bright paint on the floor, one yellow and one blue. One quote is “Life is too important to be taken seriously,” and the other something like, be yourself because everyone else is taken.

We took a short walk around the neighborhood, Polanco, admiring the upscale shops, the many restaurants and cafes, a small park, and the numerous banks. Traffic is lively and even in a crosswalk you need to exercise great care! There are no stop signs or lights at most intersections . Reminds me a bit of taking your life in your hands crossing the main streets in Hanoi.

We walked to our dinner restaurant, Comedar Jacinta, for a bit of Mexican comfort food. It’s 2 hours earlier here so by 6:30 pm, we were hungry and tired. We ate outside and were a prime target for the rose peddlers, the man with kids’ toys and other street vendors, but being seated there meant we could watch the street scene. After sunset, a gusty wind led to the unfurling of plastic sheets and we were cozy. The beef barbecue and the mixture of beef strips, cubes of cheese and guacamole with cactus served with tortillas were delicious and our two waiters most helpful.

FRIDAY ROAMING

This morning we left the hotel before 9:00 and walked a few blocks and through a small park to the Museo Nacional de Anthropologie. It’s a large and gorgeous modern building with an expansive plaza off of which there are a series of galleries covering the history of Mexico through its various cultures and customs. You could easily spend an entire day here so we were pleased when the woman at the Information Desk pointed out which galleries were the ones not to miss.

We learned about Teotihuacan (AD 100-700) and its influence far beyond its own region. (On Sunday we will visit the pyramids at Teotihuacan). And spent time in the Mexica Hall (or more familiarly known to us as the Aztec empire, AD1200-1521) and then the Maya Hall where we re-appreciated how sophisticated the Mayans were in their development of writing and their use of mathematics. Lastly, we checked out one of the Ethnography Halls on the upper floor. It is an impressive and very well laid out museum. Introductory and some explanatory panels are in English and Spanish, while individual item labels are only in Spanish.

Umbrella shower outside the museum galleries

Our feet were tired and our bodies said it was later than it was so we relaxed on the café terrace with tea and pastry. Our next foray was to walk farther on in the Bosque de Chapultepec, a quiet, pleasant woodland park with winding paths, to locate the Museo de Arte Moderne.

It was a bit farther than we realized and this museum somewhat disappointing. Several small galleries in the main building plus a number of outdoor sculptures seemed to be the bulk of the collection on display.

Having covered a fair bit of ground, we then meandered back through Chapultepec to a main thoroughfare and then to the street with our hotel. We paused on the corner for a relaxing lunch at Saks.

This restaurant has seating inside and on a semicircular terrace which is raised above the traffic. Knowing we would eat Mexican at dinner time, we opted for a bowl of corn chowder, guacamole and chips, and country style chicken cubes over linguini. The box of breads and chips with three saucers of dips was a welcome bonus.

We took an afternoon break at our hotel before going out again. Those activities will be in my next blog post.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).