Category: Travel

Chile: Santiago Markets

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SANTIAGO VIEWS AND MARKETS

Yesterday we were picked up by Pablo. He was the first driver we met almost four weeks ago and on this morning was accompanied by his wife and fellow tour guide, Carolina. Together they run a business called Bike and Wine, but also do custom tours as well.  Both are outgoing and well informed and happy to share their thoughts about Chilean life and the country’s recent history.

This was a morning of scenic views and markets.  We first went to Cerro San Cristobal to ride the cable car to its summit.  It’s the  second highest point in the city and part of a large park with a swimming pool.  Opened in 2016, this is a very modern and long cable car system. 

You drift and sway gently (there was no breeze) upward, stopping about of the third of the way for anyone going to the pool, and then continue up and up some more, seeing marvelous views of the sprawling city with the Andes Mountains in the far distance. There was some haze so not as clear as sometimes.

We exited at the top and walked up a few stairs for a view of the statue of the Virgin Mary which looms at the true summit up another winding staircase. We did not do that climb.  But we admired the views and appreciated seeing both new Santiago with skyscrapers and the historic city with its low buildings.

To return to street level, we stood in the historic green funicular (1925) with its boxy wooden cars. This route to the bottom is a much straighter, direct one, and the ride shorter with less of a view. While en route and ascending and descending, we and Carolina engaged in a lively dialogue about the problems facing the Catholic Church and the mass resignation of all the bishops here after the pope’s recent visit.

 

We spent the remainder of the morning visiting three markets. The famous Mercado Central is an historic building, designed by an English architect and dating from 1872. Today it houses the seafood market and a plethora of restaurants. Larger fancy ones in the center of the building hoping to entice tourists with displays of their dishes and smaller ones ringing the periphery which the locals prefer.

Slightly separated are arrays of fresh fish for sale—salmon, hake, reineta, abalone—and all kinds of seafood from shrimp to clams to mussels to even fresh barnacles.  Gazing into a barnacle was like looking at a pair of violet eyes. Eerie.

We also made the rounds of the produce market where cherries have just come into season, and beautiful strawberries and cabbages shared space with two kinds of corn (Americano and fatter Chilean ears), huge sweet red peppers, fat asparagus spears, and many sizes and colors of potatoes.  Appealing colors everywhere we looked!

 

The flower market is also in this area, and I liked seeing the various arrangements for weddings and funerals as well as fragrant pink and white roses and a spray of multi-colored lilies.

It was getting to be quite hot (the morning starts out cool, but by noon the day heats up) so we returned to the hotel.  We spent the afternoon relaxing before meeting friends of our San Francisco friend, Bernardo, for a lovely dinner at a nearby restaurant.

Today we will visit a museum on our next to last day in this vibrant city.

Note: All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Chile: Getting to Know Santiago

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A LITTLE SANTIAGO

We arrived here on a Sunday after a very long day of travel. Four hours in a van to the Punta Arenas airport (leaving before dawn at 4:30 am), the usual long line for LATAM check-in, followed by a somewhat shorter security line, and then the 3 hours plus flight to Santiago.  The Santiago airport is always jammed and baggage delivery is slow, but eventually we made our way to the hotel. It’s an oasis of American comfort. Not distinctly Chilean, just very comfortable. Everything works and everyone is efficient, aspects we appreciate more and more as we begin to wind up or wind down our travels.

The first order of business was our usual walk around the neighborhood. Compared to the 40 degrees we left in Patagonia, it was very bright and hot and 90 degrees!  We are in a business district full of banks, tall buildings, apartments and condos.  

There is a very nice park nearby, a street with several blocks of small restaurants, plus some of the not so unusual American chains—Brooks Brothers, Le Pain Quotidienne, and Total Wine.

We noted that many of the park benches were cleverly and creatively painted with different patterns and images. Fun! And there were families with young children romping on the play equipment.

Yesterday we engaged with the subway system. The day before the CP purchased a BIP card. You select an amount and pay for it and then two people can use it for rides. One person touches the card and goes through the turnstile and then hands the card back to the second person to touch in. And it’s legal!  

The subway station was just across the street from our hotel and we rode Line 1 about six stops to the transfer station and then successfully navigated our way to the Combinacion or transfer to Line 5 which we took two more stops to Plaza de Armas.

Plaza de Armas is the main square downtown and ringed by impressive and important institutions.  

The Catholic cathedral is here, the Chilean history museum, city hall and more. We admired the thickly trucked palm trees and the beautiful purple jacaranda trees and observed all the people coming and going on this bright sunny morning. We spent some time wandering around this area just looking at city life and then returned to our hotel for lunch and some downtime out of the heat.

Later we took another walk in our area, noting a street lined with different contemporary sculptures, and then had dinner at a trendy contemporary wine bar and restaurant called KM 0, short for Kilometer Zero.

KM 0

We were among the very few diners at 7:00 pm, being Americans and hungry. My salmon was covered with a mustard yellow sauce of puréed yellow sweet peppers and some shrimp and served with roast potatoes.

The Chief Penguin went for the daily special, shrimp fricassee, and was surprised to see a poached egg oozing on top of the shrimp, peas, spinach, and French fries.  He ate quickly to avoid the egg! We had ordered side dishes of green beans (served cold which we didn’t expect) and French fries, not knowing what the fricasee entailed. It was good food, but not exceptional.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Salmon with yellow chili sauce and shrimp
Shrimp fricassee

 

Chile: More Patagonia Adventures

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THROMBOLITES & GLACIERS

Yesterday I took a day off, sort of. The Chief Penguin went on the 10 hour excursion to see the Grey Glacier. It involved an hour and a half by van over bumpy unpaved roads, followed by walking over a swinging suspension bridge over water, and then about 30 minutes trudging on the beach to a boat. It wasn’t super windy, but not placid waters either, as the boat took an hour to get to the glacier and then spent an hour observing the glacier, and then an hour back to shore to repeat all the previous steps—with a barbecue lunch (steak) and whiskey in ancient ice sandwiched in!  He had a wonderful day, took hundreds more photos, and was led by super guide Javier and accompanied by the two Japanese and a delightful couple from Britain.

  
So, what did I do? After breakfast, I walked the trail behind the hotel which goes down to the foot of the lake, Lago Sarmiento, that is. The trail is very sensibly marked with bright red stakes that stand above the low plants. The distance to the lake is deceptive; it looks very short, but there’s a slight rise and then a dip that you don’t see before you reach the water.  Of course, it was windy, windy!  That’s the ongoing theme here, but not as windy as when the C.P. and I went out late afternoon the day we arrived and it was so blowy, we turned back almost immediately. Today’s walk was worth it.

Thrombolites at Lake Sarmiento

This is an area without trees, a steppe, and scattered about are grasses, herbs, and small woody shrubs. There are calafate bushes and some teeny tiny purple flowers as well as white ones.

And, when you really arrive at the lakefront, there are large whitish outcroppings on the beach that look like stones, but are actually thrombolites. These ancient formations are made of a specific type of bacteria, aragonite shells of gastropods, and sand, all enclosed by a structure of calcite magnesium. Thrombolites are similar to coral and are only found in Mexico, Australia and at this lake. What I saw, touched and even photographed are millions of years old!

Lake Sarmiento is a lovely blue color and is 4 miles wide, 14 miles long, and more than 1,000 feet deep. Standing looking at the lake, you get beautiful views of the Paine Massif, a set of mostly snow-capped mountain peaks.

ANOTHER EXCURSION
Today Javier took just the Chief Penguin and me with a driver further west in the park to a couple of lookout spots and to see Lago Nordenskjöld (header photo), Salto Grande (waterfall), and some great views of three jagged peaks that are the Cuernos or Horns.  On the way we saw a number of herds of guanaco plus a mother Lesser Rhea (ostrich relative) and her brood of baby chicks.

Salto Grande
Cuernos

Unlike the previous days, it was sunny, warm, and not windy!  So much so that we began to shed layers of outerwear and didn’t need hat or gloves!  It was a lovely morning’s outing, and as always, Javier was the perfect guide.  He even brought cookies and scones and some tasty hot chocolate for our last stop!

This hotel (Tierra Patagonia) and its guides go out of their way to ensure the comfort and safety of the guests, but also to make sure they have a good time!  Basilio, the head of the guides, checked in with us at lunch to see how our morning went, and the hotel manager pops up everywhere chatting with guests and inquiring if everything is to their liking. A super place!

The food here has been excellent also (we’re eating too much) and sampling, some of us, all the specialty drinks.  My compatriot and I have both tried the pisco sours and the calafate sours, but he’s gone me two better tasting the Patagonia sour and a mate sour (bright orange in color) that is very herby and supposed to give you energy.

Tonight we will enjoy our last dinner gazing at the lake. Tomorrow morning, we leave at the unhealthy hour of 4:30 am for the four hour ride to the Punta Arenas airport. LATAM Airlines cancelled our afternoon flight to Santiago so we are now on one mid-morning.

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).

Chile: Patagonia Adventure

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TORRES DEL PAINE
When we last left off, we were waiting for our van at our hotel in Punta Arenas to take us to the Tierra property on the edge of the national park, Torres del Paine. Torres means “towers” and there are three granite peaks that give the park its name of “Towers of Blue.” We were the fourth and fifth passengers in the van which had already picked up a Japanese couple at the airport and a man who appeared to be Chilean or Spanish.
We were told the trip would be four and a half hours and a woman, not riding with us and presumably from Tierra, handed us each a small canvas sack with snacks.  We were headed north toward Puerto Natales where we would then take a critical right turn eastward toward the park and the hotel. The road was paved, but the ride jouncy (we were in the third seats back from the front), and we listened to or were subjected to, depending on your perspective, recordings of Frank Sinatra tunes, everything from “My Way,” to “Strangers in the Night.”  Strange in some way to be hearing this music in Chile. After two hours, we made a short stop at a roadside restaurant for restrooms and stretching our legs.

As we traveled north, the landscape changed from tundra looking sand and tufty plants to short trees with half bare branches, half leafed out in green (narre, we were told later) and a bit more green the farther we went.   

Just before Puerto Natales, we began to see lots of sheep and several ranches, and then had to wait twice while Chilean gauchos (they call them something else here) on horseback and a dog moved cattle across the road.  

Green hills now and then lots of sheep and the first lambs of the spring.

After a critical turn about half an hour from the hotel, we entered a gravel road under construction being paved. This was a really bumpy, unpleasant stretch of road.

Then the turnoff into Tierra Patagonia and another gravel road to get to the entrance. It’s a very low building, built partially underground and almost not evident as you come up to it. The architecture, by a Chilean architect (woman) is gorgeous. The inside hallways feel like being in a tunnel, but then you have big wide windows facing Lago Sarmiento on the back, picture windows in each guest room, and almost all glass in the open restaurant and lounges.  Lots of light-colored wood throughout.

I was vibrating from the ride by the time we arrived so we enjoyed lunch and vegged the rest of the afternoon until a lovely dinner in the dining room.

Today we signed up for the morning excursion to the Laguna Azul. This was a about a 3-hour outing in a van with three main stops ending up at the beautiful turquoise lagoon. In addition to our guide and driver, we were joined by the Japanese couple from the day before.

Apparently, it’s windy all the time here and with a temperature in the low 40’s, we needed to bundle up. And by windy, I mean really windy, so windy that it practically blows you over or takes off your hat or glasses. The Chief Penguin and I both wore two pairs of pants, one designed to help against the wind, and then several other layers. I put on a long sleeved shirt, my new warm fleece, and then my down jacket on top. In addition, I had gloves and a knit hat.  I needed every item!  

Javier, a native of this region, from a very small town in Tierra del Fuego, was our guide, and he was excellent! He studied ecotourism in college in Punta Arenas and worked in the park for some time before being hired by Tierra.  His speciality is the animals in the park, and we saw a number of families of guanaco along the road.

They are in the camel family and closely related to llamas. The large families usually consist of one male and the rest females.  You often see a lone male guanaco apart from the family, either an elderly one or a young one who might aspire to join the females.  And high up on the hills, there is occasionally a single guanaco acting as sentinel to warn the group of an encroaching puma.  

We spent the morning in the eastern sector of this very large park, stopping at one small lagoon, then going on to some significant falls, and then lastly to the Lagoon Azul, every time looking to see if the three pillars of granite were visible between the snow-capped mountains. Sometimes they were and sometimes not as the clouds scudded in.  

The weather here is very changeable and clouds and rain and sun come and go quickly. The excursion ended at the lagoon with a table of snacks in a secluded spot (read that, as less windy!). This hotel does things up properly—tablecloth, choice of beer, soda, tea, coffee, hot chocolate with or without Bailey’s Irish Cream, and an assortment of little cookies and fresh fruit plus candy bars. What more could anyone possible ask for at 11:30 in the morning?

We then returned to the hotel for a lovely lunch where we tried the local favorite cocktail. Not a pisco sour (that comes from up north), but a calafate sour, made with the calafate berry. The actual berries look like blueberries, but the drink is deep ruby and seemed to pack much more punch than a pisco sour!

Tomorrow we have full day excursion beginning at 7:30 am which includes a boat trip on a lake to see the Grey Glacier.  More to look forward to!

Note:  All photos ©JWFarrington (some rights reserved).